An excellent feature in the Irish Times on 14th November says that the Italian Mafia has turned its attention to the food industry – to the tune of around €22 billion a year – affecting the path of food to dinner tables around the world. It says that the Mafia has infiltrated the entire food chain, according to a Rome-based think-tank, the Observatory of Crime in Agriculture and the Food Chain. The Mafia has bought up cheap farmland, livestock, markets and restaurants, laundering its money through what is one of the country’s leading industries. The value of the so-called agromafia business has almost doubled from €12.5 billion in 2011 to more than €22 billion in 2018 (growing at an average of 10% a year), according to the Observatory, and now accounts for 15% of total estimated Mafia turnover. Police data indicate that all of Italy’s major crime syndicates – the Camorra, Cosa Nostra and the ‘Ndrangheta – invest in farming. Mafia syndicates in Italy have an estimated annual turnover of €150 billion, according to a report by the anti-Mafia parliamentary committee in 2017 – €40 billion more than Italy’s biggest holding company.